John
163 posts
Joined: 09/09/2004 09:32:06
Location: DK-2000 Frederiksberg Denmark
Rear Subframe Large Trunion Bush Orientation?
I've heard and now seen 2 different orientations for the large rear subframe bushes - which is correct? Should the flanged end be fitted to the outside against the support pin or should it be fitted between the subframe and the trunion? I'm concerned, as I've possibly fitted them incorrectly and cannot find a picture in the Haynes which shows them properly installed. Is this picture from MiniWorld (from an Internet article that I downloaded long ago - written by Tim Mundy) wrong?
Posted: Nov 16, 2004 11:43 AM
Keith
173 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 07:56:05
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Subframe Large Trunnion Bush Orientation
Just checking to make sure I am getting on here now and able to add stuff. Weve discussed this on alternative media. Top hat should have flange between pin head and trunnion. KC.
Posted: Nov 17, 2004 07:03 PM
B1ondini
1 posts
Joined: 21/02/2005 09:05:25
Location: Kings Lynn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Subframe mounting bolts.
Hi, hope someone can help. I have, unfortunately sheared the bottom two bolts (1 LHS, 1 RHS) on the rear subframe mounts. These are the ones that mount the subframe to the car. While drilling one out very carefully, my drill bit snapped! Following this, I was gently tapping the snapped, part drilled screw when it dissapeared into the sill along with the captive nut!! Is there anything that anyone can recommend to remedy this situation? My thoughts are to cut a hole in the sill (I have a replacement oversill already) and tack a new nut on the inside of the mounting point. Hope there is someone out there who can help.
Posted: Mar 09, 2005 03:50 PM
Shoey
25 posts
Joined: 01/02/2005 12:27:04
Location: St Columb United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Subframe Problem
Ive just had a new rear subframe fitted as my last one rusted away, but ive noticed that the rear right had side arch is just under an inch higher than the left. Does anyone know how to adjust this?
Posted: Jun 21, 2005 11:00 AM
Yeh its fromt the top of the tyre to the top of the arch so its making the car look a little lopsided. But the wheels are level so thats one thing. You reckon that hi-los would sort this out? Cheers
Posted: Jun 22, 2005 05:01 PM
rich
23 posts
Joined: 17/01/2005 13:51:37
Location: Henfield United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
rear subframe
yep you can remove the brake lines and cables...unless your mini is like mine, where the garage had to cut through the lot because of seized parts and bad corrosion - good luck!
Posted: Sep 02, 2005 04:55 PM
Dave
Joined: 25/04/2005 15:34:10
Location: Banbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Subframe removal
im doing a very simple job (de-rusting my mini) not so simple for a beginner such as myself. i need to remove my rear subframe on my 998cc saloon mini mayfair. but i have the mini on ramps with the brake pipes detached and such, im now wandering how to support the car while i remove the wheels. is there any way to do this without taking it off the ramps? i really dont know how to go about doing this and it isnt in my haynes manual either. could someone point me in the right direction? thanks, dave
Posted: Sep 03, 2005 11:40 PM
Jonny 5
Joined: 11/01/2005 13:57:58
Location: Bristol United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi Dave, Dont think you can do it while its on ramps. The way I took mine off was to jack the back of the car up and lower it onto a beam of wood (running the width of the car and supported on axle stands) just in front of the rear subframe mounting points. Then all you have to do is undo half a dozen bolts and keep your toes out the way as the subframe hits the floor. However if its well rusty the bolts can be a real sod to get off. Good luck Jon
Posted: Sep 05, 2005 02:05 PM
A Novice
6 posts
Joined: 11/02/2005 17:10:38
Location: Grays United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear Subframe
O.K, am I undoing the right ones this time,( has anyone got a pic to show me) if lookinig straight on the ones above and below the grease nipple (if not excuse me for being stupid). The first one I tried is just turning and not withdrawing also the nut does not seem to be accessible. The second one cantt get undone so squirted with more lubricant and left it. Any help on the turning bolt.
Posted: Sep 11, 2005 12:26 PM
Thanks for the advise, Ill leave bolts soaking until the weekend and then have another go. Also Ill get back on the spinning bolt problem.
Posted: Sep 12, 2005 10:35 AM
spike6511
17 posts
Joined: 15/06/2005 12:12:12
Location: Bracknell United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I am replacing my rear sub frame and need advice on a couple of things. The 1st is about the packing or material used between the subframe and the bottom of the boot, what is it? and where does it go. The reason I am asking is that when I dropped the subframe out there was none. The 2nd is about the holes in the subframe. I have read somewhere that the holes in the rear subframes are taped up to help prevent water getting in and the rust starting. Can anyone comfirm this for me. Many thanks in advance. Steve
Posted: Feb 17, 2006 10:17 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I have seen some sort of felt packing between the boot floor and the subframe on various Minis, but have never thought it wise to replace it, as it only collects water, mud & salt and encourages things to rust quicker. Possibly it was intended to reduce vibrations on the boot floor, but I cant say Ive ever noticed any problems in that area. The holes in the subframe are there to help the water drain out, not to stop it getting in, so taping them up is not a good idea! They dont of course help the mud and salt get out (see above) so its a good idea to give it a good hose down once or twice a year. The subframe on my 63 Cooper was replaced in 1980, and I just had to do it again last year. I reckon 25 years isnt bad going.
Posted: Feb 18, 2006 03:58 PM
Hi Tim, Many thanks for the reply, guess I will leave the subframe as it is. Again many thanks Steve
Posted: Feb 18, 2006 04:44 PM
Crashnburn1981
158 posts
Joined: 04/12/2004 16:50:02
Location: glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
rear subframe again
Hi all, After all my woes with my rear subframe everything is now starting to take shape, on of my concers is that since the panel where the front of the rear subframe bolts up, has been beaten about a bit, will the rear subframe bolt up in the wrong position, all of the other mounting holes have stayed the same, ie the floor mounts and shock absorber mounts, so can i fit the subframe up to these holes and then use packing pieces where the subframe may not quite meet the panel, and how do i check if the subframe is lined up correctly, Cheers Nick
Posted: Feb 27, 2006 11:12 PM
ReeceD
Joined: 13/06/2006 18:48:20
Fitting rear subframes
Does anyone know how to fit a rear subframe or know where there is a guide on the internet for it, help would be much appreciated.
Posted: Jun 13, 2006 06:52 PM
It's covered in the Haynes manual, but actually there's nothing particularly difficult about it, just allow plenty of time and penetrating oil!
Posted: Jun 14, 2006 07:40 AM
M. Smith
75 posts
Joined: 06/02/2006 18:29:39
Location: Sandwich United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Cost of rear subframe alone, or completely replaced
Hi,
Does anyone know how much it would cost to have a rear subframe replaced on a 1987 mini 1000?
or
How much work is involved in doing it yourself?
Thank you for your advice.
Matthew
Posted: Aug 15, 2006 07:37 PM
Replacing it yourself isn't that difficult - it's only held on by 2 bolts in each corner. You've got to undo the brakes and shock absorbers first of course.z The Haynes manual covers it all.
The big problem usually comes undoing the 2 pairs of bolts at the front of the subframe, that screw into captive nuts set into the plate at the back of the sill. These will usually have rusted solid, so you need to spray with good penetrating oil for several days in advance. It helps if you can get at the captive nuts via the bottom of the side pockets and spray from that side.
Even then, the plate with the captive nuts is often rusted through and needs replacing - you can get the repair panel for a few quid but it will need welding in place, of course.
Posted: Aug 16, 2006 09:16 AM
S. Martin
49 posts
Joined: 14/11/2005 15:51:33
Location: Eye United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hehe! Just had mine done!!!
Just to rub it in, can't tell you how wonderfully she drove afterwards!!!
Cost about £120 for subframe, most garages charge upward of £20 an hour, if you know a good garage get them to quote you for it. Couldn't tell you how much mine cost because had to have other work such as new rear valance at the same time.
Sarah
Posted: Aug 16, 2006 07:51 PM
G-man
Joined: 20/08/2006 13:56:36
WANTED: Mini Rear Subframe - anything considered
Im after a rear subframe for my '87 Mini. I mind mind how complete or incomplete it is, just so long as it's not rotten, a little bit of top rust is fine though.
As I say I don't mind if it comes with/without trailing arms, brakes, handbrake cables etc, I just need one to get my mini back on the road!
I'm located in Southampton, but I don't mind driving for an hour or two to collect.
Please e-mail me if you think you might have what I'm after. turbominimagic@hotmail.com
G
Posted: Aug 20, 2006 01:59 PM